Alex Byrne using Shu Uemura: KTZ’s collection fits the rock and roll, but well-travelled woman – she wouldn’t wear a lot of makeup. So I wanted to translate that into the look I created by doing a modern version of the delicateness seen in the Renaissance period. Painted and sculpted but dainty; pre-Raphaelite, but without the flush. Pink was way too romantic for the collection, so the most important part of the look is the Brightening UV Under Base Mousse, which give the skin a luminosity but reduces the rosiness. The models then just needed a touch of Illuminating Moisture Fluid Foundation, and to keep with the theme we stripped back on blush. There are no harsh lines in this makeup and instead of using contour to shade-down, we used highlight to sculpt-up which helps to exagerate the radiance and create shape without the use of severe shadows. Sculpting with light instead of dark – I dabbed Cream Eyeshadow in Matte White followed by Face Powder Sheer in Pearl with a fluffy Natural 14 Brush round the temples and the shimmery end of the Eye Light Pencil across the cheekbones. While with the matte end of the pencil I lined the waterline to brighten. Then I curled the lashes and kept it at that – no mascara, no brow products, just a quick pat of Pressed Eye shadow in M851 to nude out the lid. For lips I created a light-bouncing skintoned combination with the Rouge Unlimited Lipstick in M BG 931, layered with Gloss Unlimited in ND 10 S (due to be launched in May 2013) over the top.
What’s the lesson learned here then? Luminous skin is a texture to rock 12 months of the year. And sculpting-up with highlight? Who knew? Both techniques and trends noted. Class dismissed.